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Bon Appétit’s Cultural Faux Pas
The flap over Bon Appétit’s version of the Filipino shaved ice treat Halo Halo is an interesting case of cultural misappropriation. Wilma B. Consul in The Salt explains: The homage recipe includes...
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The Food Revolution Cannot be Co-opted
Ordinarily I wouldn’t be much concerned about the closing of chain restaurants but this story caught my eye because of the clueless reasoning behind it. Applebee’s announced this month that more than...
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Do You Really Want a Wine that Smells like Blood or Asparagus?
The hot buzz word in the wine world over the past few years is “authenticity”, which Jamie Goode and Sam Harrop define as wine with a sense of place, wine that exudes characteristics that come from the...
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Food Rules and Authenticity
Cooking is an art mired in tradition. Each nation has its food rules encrusted with the patina of age, and each region within each nation has its way of doing things that seem natural and “right”....
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Wine’s Imitation Game
My Three Quarks Daily column this month considers the possible future in which great wines like a 1982 Lafite Rothschild can be reverse engineered and manufactured at a fraction of the cost of the...
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On Sassicaia and Authenticity
Adam Lechmere has me scratching my head regarding his latest in Club Oenologique. He is enjoying his Sassicaia 2009 and Château Pichon Baron 2009, and thinks we’ve become too enamored with recent...
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Wine Traditions, Authority, and Authenticity (I)
Many wines, especially artisanal wines and wines of terroir, are a representation of the winemaking tradition from which they emerge. But what counts as an authentic representation of that tradition...
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Wine Traditions, Authority, and Authenticity (Part 2)
Wine traditions represent a common stock of knowledge and know how but also supply members with a sense of identity. They use flavor consistencies, symbols, and ceremonies to link people to a place, a...
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Italian Food Traditions Aren’t so Traditional
Are our concepts of Italian food traditions based on a lie? Apparently, many of those protected designations of origins and famous dishes with authentic roots deep in Italian history are younger than I...
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Food Traditions and “Prostitution”
Paella is one of my favorite dishes because it is so versatile. For those of us who like to play with our food, it’s the perfect dish because you can endlessly combine ingredients while maintaining its...
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